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Welcome to My Blog for Meenakshi Residency, Arekere

Dear Meenakshi Residency Residents and Owners,

I am happy to present you a blog for Meenakshi Residency, which you can use as a one stop shop for all the information which you need while you live at Meenakshi Residency. This blog has a single agenda of sharing the information among the residents. To start with, I have put whatever information I had and will continue to add on it. It was a long over due but I could not make it unless I found it was so easy to do it at blogger.com. If you want to contribute any thing to an existing blog, you can put as comments and time to time, I will merge it with the main document. Also, if you prefer, you can mail me any information you want to be added. I will be picking up informative postings from the yahoo group and add it here. If you like, you can volunteer to dig informative postings from the archive of the yahoo group and add to it. If you want to write a blog on this site, let me know about your idea and I can even add you as a co-blogger. If you have any comments, please feel free to make it by clicking comments but comments will be approved only once you leave your name and e-mail id. (No Anonymous comments please.)Though you will see many places in active voice, but "I" always does not mean myself. I have copied the comments and feedback posted on the yahoo group from different members and to save time, in most cases I have left it in the active voice.

Regards
Ottur

Tuesday, February 24, 2009

www.batcon.org

Bats in Buildings

Welcome to BCIs Bats in Buildings web page. We have put together an exciting program that lists companies who provide proper bat exclusion services.

In order to be listed on our web site, companies must be insured and licensed in the states they serve, and use approved bat exclusion methods.

This site also includes detailed information on bats in buildings, such as:

  • What kind of bats use buildings and why
  • How to live safely with bats
  • What exclusion methods are approved and what methods are not approved, and why
  • Simple do-it-yourself exclusion methods
  • Using bat houses as management tools
  • What to do if you find a bat

If you want to be listed as a Bat Exclusion Professional, please go to the 'Professional Excluders' link above.

More details.......

Batcon

pestrepellerultimate

Only our exclusive line of indoor and outdoor pest repellers permanently rid you of pesky animals, rodents and insects using humane, non toxic techniques. Customers worldwide rave about enjoying a pest-free and insecticide-free home.

more details....

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Saturday, February 21, 2009

Slash Your Electric Bills Now!

Slash Your Electric Bills Now!

Thanks to unusually harsh weather and poor public utility policies in some states, home electric bills have shot through the roof this year. save electricity bulbUnfortunately, forecasters predict even higher electric prices when heavy cooling demands arrive with hot summer weather.

What can you do to take the strain off your electric meter?

Here are ten easy ways to slash your electric bills:

1) Turn off lights you're not using. This is a no-brainer and certainly one of the easiest measures of all, and yet it is a key step toward acting with a conservation mindset. Just flip a switch to stop wasting hundreds of watts of power every day.

2) Cut back on the lights you use. Indoors, use dimmers or decrease the wattage of bulbs. Opt for task lighting instead of general room lighting where possible. Outdoors, put motion sensors on light fixtures so bulbs only turn on when and where they are needed.

3) Adjust your thermostat. An air conditioner uses a tremendous amount of electricity when it runs. During the summer, you can realize major savings by raising the set temperature to 78 degrees F. or higher so the air conditioner will run less.

Conversely, turn the set temperature down during the winter (as a rule of thumb, every degree you lower a thermostat's set temperature in the winter will save 3% of energy costs over a 24-hour period.)

4) Use an electronic thermostat. If you don't already have a programmable electronic thermostat for your heating/cooling system, strongly consider replacing your existing thermostat with one. This device can be set to automatically adjust temperature settings to energy-saving levels when you're sleeping or away from the house.

5) Run the forced-air system's fan--not the air conditioner--to maintain a comfortable temperature during the summer. Simply flip the thermostat to "Fan Only" to recycle air throughout the house. (Of course, in a hot, humid climate, running the fan alone won't cool and dehumidify the house.) Also: Replace or clean the heating/cooling system's air filters to improve efficiency.

6) Maintain your refrigerator. Because it is one of the biggest energy-users in the home, a refrigerator should be operated at maximum efficiency. This means opening the door only briefly and adjusting the "Cold" control according to the manufacturer's directions. Vacuum refrigerator coils to remove excess dust.

Defrost if necessary (most refrigerators are frost-free). To reduce the amount of power the refrigerator's motor uses, consider plugging it into an electronic induction motor control such as the Power Planner, available in home improvement centers.

7) Use electrical appliances less. Only run an electric dryer with full loads or, even better, air-dry your clothes. Opt for cooking in the microwave instead of with an electric oven. And don't forget to turn off the coffee maker when the coffee is done. When buying new appliances, check the EnergyGuide labels to be sure they are energy efficient models.

8) Turn down the water heater temperature to a maximum of 120 degrees (to check the temperature, place a meat thermometer in a glass and run hot water into it for a couple of minutes). An electric water heater devours electricity! Obviously, if you have a gas water heater, this tactic will save you gas, not electricity.

9) Replace standard incandescent light bulbs with highly efficient compact fluorescent bulbs, which use from about one quarter to one third the energy to produce the same amount of light (a 20-watt compact fluorescent will give you about the same light as a 75-watt incandescent). Though most cost considerably more than conventional bulbs, they last up to thirteen times longer which, combined with the energy savings, makes them a long-term good buy.

10) Use natural light. Longer days and a higher summer sun angle afford you an opportunity to let Mother Nature help with the energy bills. The trick is to admit light without summer heat gain or glare (or winter heat loss). Fortunately, you can control heat gain and glare with window coverings and window films, available at home improvement centers. To increase the amount of natural light that floods a room, bounce it off the ceiling and walls with the aid of louvers or operable blinds (light-toned ceiling, walls, and floors work best). For more about using daylight, check out the HomeTips "Daylighting" report.

Though some of these methods may appear as though they will give you only minor relief from staggering electric bills, adopting several or all of them can result in significant overall savings. Many utilities charge higher rates for the portion of your electrical usage that exceeds baseline requirements. When you trim away the excess fat, you can dramatically lower your bills.

Repair & Care

Repairing a Hot Water Heating System

Types of hot water heating systems vary, so if you are unsure of the proper maintenance of your system, it's a good idea to hire a service person to teach you. With periodic care, these systems should operate virtually problem-free. When problems do occur, there are a few things you can handle yourself.


With a steam system, hammering noises may occur if the radiator isn't sloped slightly. Place small shims beneath one end to slope the radiator toward the outflow.

If the inlet valve leaks, the culprit is usually a worn valve stem packing. Repairing this involves draining water in the system until it drops below the valve and then dismantling the valve and replacing the packing (this is very similar to a faucet). If you don't know how to drain water from the system, call a plumber or radiant heating service person.

If the convectors are cold:
1) Check the power at the master switch, circuit breaker, or fuse.
2) Be sure the boiler is receiving fuel—that the fuel inlet valve is open.
3) Check the thermostat.
4) Bleed the air from convectors by opening each air valve with a wrench until water squirts out (catch the water in a bucket or bowl). Be ready for hot water.


Get Pre-Screened Central Heating Installation and Repair Help or Contractors



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Installing a Radiant Floor Heating System

Installing a Radiant Floor Heating System

Are you planning to put in a new tile or stone floor? If so, there is no better way to make it cozy and comfortable underfoot than to install a radiant floor heating system.


Of the various types of radiant floor heaters, one of the easiest to install is a fiberglass-mesh-backed matting that contains electric-resistance cables. Here we show you the basics for installing this type. The product shown is TempZone by WarmlyYours.

When ordering this system, send a floor plan of the bathroom (or other room) to WarmlyYours; the company will calculate the amount of material needed and fax or mail back to you a layout showing exactly where to cut and position the mesh for the best coverage and easiest installation.

Before beginning, discuss electrical requirements with an electrical contractor. Your system may require a dedicated circuit and will definitely require protection by a ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI). You'll also want the electrician to do the final hook-up (Step 4).

Please note: Observe the manufacturer's instructions implicitly. The steps that follow are meant to be a general overview of the installation sequence.

1) Simply use a pair of scissors to cut the mesh backing according to the layout. This creates rectangular panels or exposed cables that can be positioned back and forth across the floor and fitted around fixtures and cabinetry. You only cut the mesh—never the cables.
2) After using the supplied tester to make sure the cables are intact and working, apply a 1/8-inch coating of thinset cement or flooring adhesive over the top of the mesh. (You can staple or glue the mesh—but not the cables—to the subfloor to hold it in place before applying the thinset.)
3) Embed stone or floor tiles in an additional layer of thinset cement. For more about this, see Tiling a Floor.
4) Have the system wired to a thermostat that's installed in a standard 2-by-4 or 4-by-4-inch wall box by an electrician. The rounded plastic piece shown here is a tester used to ensure that the system is working.

Get Electric Bathroom Floor Heating at Warmly Yours

Find Pre-Screened Radiant Floor Heating System Installation Contractors



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Photography courtesy of WarmlyYours

Buying Guides & Reports

Radiant In-Floor Heating Systems

Unlike forced-air heating, radiant floor heating doesn't stir up dust or allergens, and it cuts down on heat loss through infiltration.radiant floor heat

A forced-air heating system pulls air out of rooms, heats it, and blows it back into the rooms. This pressurizes a house, pushing warm air out through cracks and openings. Because a home heated solely by radiant heat isn't under pressure, the room air—and heat—stays inside.


And, because of the way radiant heating works, you needn't be as concerned about warm air escaping when you open a door. Although you will still feel a draft, a room heated radiantly recovers quickly.

Radiant heat warms your body and other objects rather than just the room's air. This means you can keep the thermostat turned two to three degrees lower than normal without losing comfort. It's kind of like standing in the warm sun on a cold day.

Of course, radiant heating is just heating. It will not cool your home or clean the air. If you live in a climate where cooling is necessary, you'll need additional equipment for the job, such as zone air conditioners. radiant in floor heating diagramAn exception is a radiant heating system that utilizes water warmed by a heat pump, which can also provide cooling in the summer.

If you're considering a radiant floor heating system, you will need to choose between electric and water (hydronic) systems. You'll also need to consider whether the installation will be "wet" (embedded in a radiant floor heatconcrete slab or lightweight concrete) or "dry" (attached on top or beneath the subfloor or sandwiched between two layers of subflooring).

The right choices will depend on whether you're dealing with new or existing construction, the type of finish floor you have or wish to install, energy costs in your area, and how much you're willing to spend.

Another type of radiant heating is the old-style hot water heating system, which employs a boiler and network of pipes that delivers heated water (or steam) to convectors or radiators located in rooms. If you have such a system in your house and need advice on care or maintenance, please see our section on Repairing a Hot Water Heating System.


Find Local Pre-Screened Radiant Floor Heating System Installation Contractors

Radiant Floor Heat

Radiant Floor Heat

If you're tired of stepping out of the shower onto a freezing cold tile floor, maybe it's time for you to investigate radiant floor heat--particularly if you're building a new bathroom or doing major remodeling (most types can be tricky to retrofit). Radiant floor heating is warm and cozy underfoot--in fact it warms your entire body quietly and invisibly with radiant


energy instead of by blowing warmed air into the room the way a more typical forced-air heating system does.

Radiant floor heating systems are either hydronic (hot water) or electric. Hydronic systems utilize a system of tubes that wind beneath the floor, transferring warmth from the hot water that circulates within them. They require a special water heater. Electric radiant systems employ special electric-resistance panels, coils, or foil to radiate heat. Because these are essentially like the innards of a large toaster, they can draw considerable electric energy when turned on.

Unless you have great access to the underside of the floor you want to heat, radiant floor heating is not easy to retrofit under an existing floor. It's easiest to install it in new construction or where you're tearing-up the floor during a major remodeling project.

For more specific information about radiant floor heating, select the articles listed here.

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